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Scientific research wasnt enough, Nichols says. Now what were doing is a lot of social sorts of things, understanding the economics and policy issues as well as marine science. Marine conservation is also really about people and fishermen and impacts to the marine environment. So it ended up being an extremely useful degree to have. The meeting with local fishermen in Banderitas Estuary is part of his latest conservation strategy. His research there supports his belief that Banderitas is the perfect site for the first official sea-turtle reserve in Baja California, an idea hes recently been advocating. Its a calm, quiet arm of the bay thats easily protected. Turtles that feed there seem to stay in the area, and its easily accessible to tourists. With their recently received fishing rights, the cooperative of fishermen has an incentive to begin long-term management of the region.
Leaning forward toward the fishermen in the boat, hands clasped, Nichols outlines his idea to make Banderitas Estuary a turtle reserve, an area the fishermen will still be able to use but one completely safe for turtles. The thirty-four-year-old scientist has an easy smile and a slow pull to his words, but his honest enthusiasm and passion are infectious. The men are drawn in as he explains that the reserve will be the first in all of Baja California, and thus could attract international attention. He tells them that tourists who flock to the area in the later winter and spring to see gray whales and their calves might stay an extra day and go snorkeling to see turtles in an area they know is protected. These men, who know the turtles habits, would be the guides. He also tells them that their fish and oysters could command a higher price if they come with some sort of certification that they are grown in an ecologically sensitive manner that helps protect endangered sea turtles. The men are interested. Id like to protect turtles, says Arturo Gonzales Dominguez. Both for my own benefit, and for the future. If we dont protect them now, my children when they are grown wont be able to see turtles as I have. Nichols doesnt stop at the discussion of Banderitas. He relaxes back in his chair and continues on to another aspect of his latest conservation strategy. Did you know that sea turtles are the most important animals in Baja? The men pause and consider his words. He tells them that there is absolutely no other animal as tied in to the life, food, culture, and ecology in the region. Can you think of one? he asks. They cant. He knows he has them hooked. This simple statement is a carefully thought-out tactic. He says he believes if he says it enough times to enough peopleTurtles are the most important animals in the entire peninsulathey will start repeating it. And if enough people repeat it to others, then idea will take hold.
His theories on information flow in Baja are supported later that evening, when he stops by a local taco stand to pick up dinner. Did you hear? one man says to him. Theyre thinking of starting a turtle sanctuary in Banderitas Estuary. Nichols simply nods and looks interested. Its taken years to get people in communities around Baja to trust and accept him. When he first pulled into Puerto San Carlos four years ago, armed with a pitted pick-up truck, a research permit, and fluent Spanish, locals saw him as an odd gringo with a passion for turtles. They tolerated his questions. Nichols says it wasnt difficult to figure out who the poachers were, that if they know about exactly where turtles feed and what they eat and where to find themwell, these are things you know only if you spend a lot of time thinking about turtles. And the locals, even the poachers, are exactly the ones he approached to learn more about Bajas turtles. Since theyre the ones who know the most about the animals living there, Nichols saw every conversation as an opportunity to share some information about turtle biology and why the animals might disappear forever. Its the peoples passion for sea turtles that may help the turtles survive. Sometimes Id look at these people and think, youre made of turtle, eating so many turtles over the years, drinking the blood, part of you is turtle protein, he says. Instead of reacting to that in a disgusted way, I just listened. I realized that this connection to the animal is one of the reasons why its endangered, but its also a tool and the reason why they will be protected, and why people will be enthusiastic about working for their recovery. Nichols says that about 25 percent of the animals hes tagged are killed. That estimate is supported by two fishermen who started their own basic tagging system, tying fishing wire onto the shell of turtles caught accidentally before throwing them back in the water. Of the four turtles they tagged their first few weeks, one turned up eaten.
These little people are the very people Nichols considers his colleagues. He says the best way to learn from them, and to teach them, is to do things a little bit differently from the norm. He doesnt slide into town with shiny new equipment, drop anchor, work for a couple of weeks, and leave. Even if he had more money for research, he says, hed rather employ more locals to conduct research and use local equipment than buy some fancy new boat. These are the real heroes of sea-turtle conservation, says Nichols. Theyre making decisions that are not popular, that are ridiculed by their families, and are really sincerely working to protect an endangered species that is food for most people. I cant imagine what it would be like to be in a community where I grew up and go against something thats such a deep tradition. That tradition appears to be slowly changing. Only two weeks after the first meeting on the pontoon, the hundred men of the fishing cooperative called a town meeting and announced that Banderitas Estuary will be the first turtle sanctuary in all of Baja California. They even went one step further, announcing their intention to go house to house, notifying poacherswho might be friends and relativesthat poaching will no longer be tolerated in their area. Government officials and the local branch of the navy were at the meeting to back them up. Farther up the coast, the fishing community of Punta Abreojos is virtually a reserve, says Nichols, because they so carefully manage their fishery and have recently begun to enforce the Mexican turtle ban. Two areas on the gulf side are also being considered for future turtle sanctuaries. Nichols hopes these will be the beginning of a string of protected areas around the coast. But these are only four communities out of hundreds around the coast. Even if the turtles do survive, they have to swim thousands of miles back to their nesting beaches, encountering nets, fishing lines, pollution, and hunters along the way. In the face of such challenges, Nichols has one vision that keeps him going. Sometimes I imagine being an old man and sitting around with some of these fishermen that are my age with our grandkids, and seeing some turtles swim by in a place thats beautiful, Nichols says. And I think, God, thats going to be great. . Graber is a freelance writer and a reporter with the National Public Radio program Living on Earth. An audio report on Nichols and his research aired on the show in March. Jeffrey Brown, a 1997 finalist for the Pulitzer Prize, is a freelance photographer. For more information, e-mail jbrown@jeffreybrown.com. |
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