ARTICLES BY Joel Hoekstra

  • Study break: Lonsdorf, left, and colleague amid savanna grasses in Tanzania. Ian Gilby.
    January 31, 2002
    The trip to Gombe Stream National Park begins with a flight to Dar es Salaam. From there, you take the train some 700 miles, a journey punctuated by stops in every small town and sometimes halted altogether by a derailed car or engine breakdown. After forty-plus hours, you arrive in the fishing port of Kigoma and step aboard a water taxi outfitted with a small outboard motor.
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