The dirt road that leads to the village of Kagamo is jolting and narrow, little more than a gash cut into the foothills of northwestern Rwanda’s jagged Virunga volcanoes. As our Land Rover crunches over chunks of soft volcanic rock, my guide tells me about the people who live here. They are desperately poor, he says. Many eat only once every two days. They have no land. Most of the children will never go to school.